How To Repair A Rotted Beam
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General Protection
If our Articulate Penetrating Epoxy Sealer™ were inexpensive enough and the techniques simple plenty, every slice of wood that goes into a house could benefit by being saturated with the CPES™. That is, in fact, what is done on some new wood boats: all new woods and all exposed wood is painted or injected with CPES™. It partially waterproofs the woods, sets upwardly a bulwark that discourages the influx of rot fungi (if they're non already in the wood), and discourages insect penetration, which sometimes leads to rot problems. Just a gunkhole is small-scale, the woods all top form - and we're buying wholesale!
CPES™ makes an first-class woods primer for any type of pigment. On good wood it spreads a long way, and normal primers tin can be eliminated, so the expense is non outrageous.
In that location are areas in and around the business firm that are particularly subject to rotting, and these can be treated with CPES™, or a combination of CPES™ and a disodium octaborate tetrahydrate solution awarding. We recommend that the powder dissolved in water method be used, since it interferes less with CPES™ penetration than does the disodium in glycol. Outset, apply the disodium solution, let the woods dry out, then the CPES™ to seal it in. This combination volition give you an nearly impenetrable barrier against wood decomposition, especially if particular attention is paid to end-grain sections.
Certain areas are obvious: windowsills, wood gutters and surrounding forest, post and column bases, wood framing, and we'll get to some of those in the repair section. There are others that yous often don't recall about that if saturated with the CPES™ could save yous time and money down the road. Plywood is used ofttimes in home repairs and additions. Click hither to encounter the results of our testing on plywood panels.
Siding and Siding Frame Joints
If these areas are brushed heavily with CPES™ before puttying or caulking the forest will be doubly protected. The CPES™ volition absorb readily into the end-grain and penetrate farther than you lot might think into siding boards and frames. Give it a couple of days to cure and so come dorsum with concluding sealing. The CPES™ makes a superior base for all sealants.
All building corners tin can be too saturated with the CPES™. This is where the h2o usually gets in and the bad wood problems start. Seal the wood before you paint and then don't remember virtually it again.
Siding or siding frames that are weathered, splintered, or are soft and punky can be restored by generous application of CPES™ to the surface. CPES™ will be absorbed by the forest readily and when fully cured (ii–v days) volition harden the surface and provide and excellent prime coating for paint. Paint should exist removed before the application of the CPES™, and the wood should be reasonably dry. Afterwards the CPES™ has been applied, any holes or cracks tin exist filled with Fill-It™ Epoxy Filler.
Coverage for CPES™ on new wood volition be approximately 250 sq. ft. per gallon. On old, weathered or soft woods the coverage will depend entirely on the absorbency of the wood, and usually varies between 100 and 175 sq. ft. per gallon.
Gutters
For those of y'all who however have wooden gutters, it is possible to rot-protect them. Clean them out within, make sure they're reasonably dry, remove any loose rotten wood, and and then soak at least twice with the Articulate Penetrating Epoxy Sealer™. Brand sure it seeps into all cracks and joints. Keep applying information technology until information technology pools and the wood volition accept no more. Permit it cure and then paint with a polyurethane-based end. The polyurethane will bond with the CPES™ for very tight adhesion, and the paint volition protect the epoxy from the UV degradation that all epoxies are subject area to.
(A) Outside
(B) Deterioration on underside of glu-lam.
(C) Indoors showing glu-lam deterioration.
(D) The kickoff of deterioration on the rafter beam.
Eaves and Roof Overhangs
Associated with gutters are roof overhangs and eaves. These are not so easily repaired with epoxy wood consolidants, mainly because you're working against gravity for CPES™ application. For light rot the CPES™ can be practical from underneath; it will "wick-upward" into the rotted expanse for several inches in dry wood. Otherwise, you're faced with removing roof edging and repairing information technology from in a higher place. If you have to go this far, then you are most the point of just replacing the eaves. Roof beams, withal, can be repaired very finer from above, since replacing the whole beam would be a major project. For bad rot, go through our entire CPES™/Resin/Filler sequence. If necessary, you can as well sister the roof beam.
Here's a cautionary notation on what can happen if things are non done in the proper sequence. (Refer to photos) This home has massive glu-lam beams that go into the house and up to the roof peak, and with rafter beams that cross to support the roof. Years agone the glu-lam beams began to show some signs of rot and wood deterioration. At the time the thought was that by "protecting" the beams with 1/4″ steel plating information technology would finish the rot problem. The bottom of the woods beams were left exposed.
The steel sheathing only aggravated the rot problem by creating a closed environs that fabricated information technology more difficult for the wood to vent away moisture. The rotting process accelerated. The steel sheathing was not a bad idea, but earlier the steel "sistering" was applied the wood should have been thoroughly stale out and then saturated with CPES™. It would accept required some access hole drilling nigh the tops of the beams, as well every bit coverage by castor or spray from the outside.
Large amounts of CPES™ was purchased and it was injected through access holes drilled down from removed bolts, and is was applied generously to all rafters through surface application and drilled admission holes.
Axle and Joist Rot
Beams and joists, particularly those that are exposed to conditions, are apt to trap moisture, which often leads to deterioration and rot. This is a common occurrence on the exposed ends of the beams, equally you can meet in pictures A, B and C.
Click on photos to see larger images.
Repair of this type of damage is relatively uncomplicated:
1) Remove any loose wood and allow the beam to get reasonably dry.
2) Saturate the axle end with our CPES™. Allow the end grain of the wood to absorb all the CPES that it will. CPES will harden any remaining soft woods and significantly reduce the chances of fungi or bacteria returning to infect the wood.
3) Look for several days (or longer).
4) Fill the vacant expanse with our Make full-Information technology™ Epoxy Filler, or with new CPES treated forest bonded in place with the Make full-It Epoxy Filler. The Fill-Information technology will chemically bond with the CPES treated surface. The beam tin can exist repainted once the Fill-Information technology Epoxy Filler has cured. For those wanting a toned concluding finish, the Fill-It Epoxy Filler tin be colored to about any shade of dark-brown using our Epoxy Coloring Amanuensis.
This kind of damage to axle ends can be significantly reduced by pre-treating the ends of the beams with the CPES. Let the end grain of the beam to absorb all the CPES that information technology will.
Junction points on beams are also prime locations for the development of rot, primarily considering moisture becomes trapped within the joint seams. Movie D is a good case of what can happen.
Repair for this type of damage is every bit follows:
ane) Drill some small holes to decide the extent of the rot inside the beam, and/or probe with a piece of stiff wire to determine degree of impairment.
2) Remove whatsoever loose forest.
3) Allow area to become reasonably dry.
4) Squirt, brush, or spray CPES into the area, making sure that all wood has been saturated.
5) Wait for 3–4 days (or longer).
half-dozen) Make full with our Fill up-Information technology Epoxy Filler. This can be washed sequentially, if required; that is, a gross fill which is allowed to cure, and so followed with a stop make full. It will all bond together chemically.
Pictures F, 1000 and H show badly rotted exterior deck beams/joists. The rotten forest has been removed exposing big voids. In this case more than 50% of the wood has been removed and and then repair will crave bonding in pieces of new wood, or using metal to reinforce the beams. The filling and bonding-in of the reinforcement can be washed, afterwards the handling with the CPES, with a mixture of our Layup & Laminating™ Epoxy Resin and sawdust or forest chips. This mixture can exist as thin or as thick every bit you wish. If the beam extends into the building, the reinforcing material volition have to exist inserted and epoxy-bonded into the interior beam through augured holes. "Sistering" the beams with new, through-bolted forest is sometimes also a satisfactory solution. Be sure the new forest is CPES treated for protection against rot, including the drilled commodities holes. If y'all have questions or concerns about the forcefulness of this type of repair, we strongly urge you to consult with a registered architect or professional engineer.
More oft, the impairment to the beam will not be every bit severe, every bit in moving-picture show I, and the repair procedure should exist as outlined to a higher place: Saturation with the CPES, followed several days (or longer) afterward with the Layup & Laminating Resin and sawdust, with our without new wood to assist fill.
If the deterioration is on the within of the axle and you wish to preserve the beam face, then the repair procedure is every bit follows:
one) Remove all loose wood that is attainable.
2) Using a 1/4″ drill bit, drill down-sloping holes into the interior of the desperately deteriorated portions. Drill these holes as close to the top equally possible. Gravity will pull the product down into the wood.
3) Pump or squirt our CPES (Articulate Penetrating Epoxy Sealer) into each pigsty. Some may quickly leak out of holes or cracks in the sides of the beam. This all happens quickly. Brush-coat any deteriorated exterior portion of the beam with the CPES, assuasive the wood to absorb all the CPES it will.
The CPES is doing iii things: It's inactivating all fungi/leaner, hardening soft wood, and setting upwards an epoxy primer base for the subsequent epoxy material. Both the CPES and the resin have a slight amber colour, and this will drip down through whatsoever exterior cracks or holes. If there are any surfaces underneath that yous don't want resin on, cover them with a poly tarp before start the process.
4) Wait for about a week (or longer).
five) Using our re-usable caulking tubes (10 oz size), pump pure Layup & Laminating Resin into the holes. Generous amounts of the resin should be pumped in, but not to the point of fill. Holes where the Layup & Laminating Resin might leak out tin exist closed with 2″ clear packing tape, or with cardboard covered with plastic kitchen wrap or waxed paper.
half dozen) Wait for a solar day (or longer).
vii) Repeat the procedure to a higher place, only this time use the Layup & Laminating Resin mixed with sawdust or wood flour (we sell wood flour if yous need it) to make a soft slurry, almost the consistency of very heavy syrup, and pump that into the aforementioned holes.
8) Wait for a day (or longer).
9) Mix a heavy mixture of the Fifty&L Resin/sawdust, about like heavy peanut butter, load the 10 oz caulking tube, and pump that into the holes until they are filled.
ten) Mix the Fifty&L Resin/sawdust to a thickness that will "hang" and utilise that to all vacant areas on the log exteriors. This tin be done sequentially; that is, a gross fill up followed by a terminate fill. This should be as smooth as possible considering once cured the mix is virtually incommunicable to sand. Or utilize an epoxy filler for finishing, as it is easier to sand.
Basically, that'southward it. A strong repair. The color of the L&L Resin/sawdust or epoxy filler will be most equally shown on this link on our website, along with variations past using our Epoxy Coloring Amanuensis.
We have a client who sent in their pictures after repairing their beams with the above method, see the 1850 Beam Renovation for them.
Click on photos to encounter larger images.
Window Sill and Frame Rot
Window sill and frame rot is a common problem considering h2o leaks in around the pigment/caulk and the heat from the sunday cooks it all up into a perfect environs for rot fungi. To the right nosotros show a pic of balmy rot where the moisture has gotten nether the caulking (run across moving-picture show A), and a picture of severe rot where moisture has only gotten under the paint. (See picture B). The rot may too become into the window/door framing. (See pictures C and D).
CPES™ (Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer) is always the offset product practical. It penetrates securely, hardens the woods and about rot-proofs the expanse. After several days you are free to come back with our Fill-It™ Epoxy Filler and make full all voids. The Make full-It chemically bonds with the CPES treated wood and produces a structural repair.
The sequence for repair is basically equally follows:
1) Remove any loose forest.
ii) Brand sure the wood is reasonably dry out. (Come across picture Due east). Use a hair dryer for awhile if there is any doubt. Slightly damp is okay.
3) Scrape off pigment around the afflicted area, or, improve however, the whole sill.
4) Apply our CPES (Articulate Penetrating Epoxy Sealer) to the sill, allowing the wood to absorb all the CPES that it will. If rot is into the framing, drill small downwardly-sloping access holes for the injection of the CPES. (See picture show F).
5) Wait for two–3 days (or longer).
6) Return and fill up all vacant areas with our Fill up-Information technology Epoxy Filler. This can exist smoothed off and will cure hard in 24 hours. It can exist sanded smoothen after information technology cures. The Fill-It is a permanent fill… information technology won't crack or pop out. (Run across picture G for a gross fill and film H for a sanded fill).
If the area requires a more fluid fill up, our Layup & Laminating Resin tin exist used, or a slurry mix of the Layup & Laminating Resin and our sawdust. Either the Fill-It Epoxy Filler or the Layup & Laminating Resin tin can exist pumped into voids with our Re-Usable Caulking Tubes.
7) Re-pigment the sill, straight over the CPES'd surface. Any type of paint will piece of work just fine.
Deteriorated shutters and doors and door sills can be repaired using similar techniques. There are several window repair projects sent in past different customers see our Client Projects folio to encounter the dissimilar repairs and how they were completed.
Doorway Thresholds
Doorway thresholds are another area that is rot decumbent due to moisture and estrus. Use a knife or ice pick to determine the range and depth of the rotten woods. Remove any wood that is totally loose and rotted. At joints utilize a drill to penetrate into hidden areas that may take rot. You tin meet what comes out with the drill. Soak it all in CPES™ and so go dorsum and make any fills using Layup & Laminating Epoxy Resin™ if deep rot and Fill-It™ Epoxy Filler.
Doors and doorway frames tin be repaired in a similar style. Always start at the top so that the CPES™ runs downward. Pigment/finish must exist removed from deteriorated expanse first so the CPES™ tin can penetrate. Drill if necessary to get depth.
Garage Doors
Many garage doors have a bottom reinforcing console that collects water which seeps between the console and the primary door structure. Wood deterioration is often the upshot, especially if the door is on the sunny side of the house. This is a perfect location for using the Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer™. The area tin be dried and scraped out, and then CPES™ injected or brushed into the gap. After it cures, either Layup & Laminating Resin™ or Fill up-It™ Epoxy Filler tin be laid in and the whole area re-painted. It's like shooting fish in a barrel, quick, and a lot cheaper than replacing the panel or the door.
Gates, Fences, Posts and Other Ancillary Pieces
Some of these are difficult to replace. It's worth some effort and Articulate Penetrating Epoxy Sealer™ applied in advance to resist rot from getting started. Fence postal service bases, screw holes for hinges, wood joints, gate joints, etc. are all prime candidates for future rot. Protect them first.
Even the casual application of CPES™ to finish-grains tin can resist the kind of argue-top deterioration seen in the accompanying moving-picture show.
The photos (blare) prove an instance of a Florida deck support axle (but the same holds true for any mail service buried in the ground) that was repaired by using CPES™, Layup & Laminating Resin and Fill-It™ Epoxy Filler. Photo "A" shows the extent of the trouble after a little of the soil was dug abroad. Precipitous probes were pushed through the wood to determine the extent and depth of the wood rot. More surrounding soil was cleared away and the deteriorated area completely exposed, every bit shown in photo "B" and in close-up in photo "C".
Woods must be reasonably dry before CPES™ and subsequent products can be applied. In this case the home owner rented a kerosene heater/blower and dried the wood thoroughly. He so saturated the wood with CPES™, after drilling some CPES™-access holes above the visibly rotted area to be sure saturation was complete. He then waited 4–5 days for the CPES™ to vent away all carrier solvents, and then applied Layup & Laminating Resin over the deteriorated surface (especially the bottom) and into the access holes via a turkey baster. After a 24 hour cure-time, the whole expanse was so filled with the Fill-It™ Epoxy Filler. This had to be done in several applications to forestall sag-out. The job was completed. The compressive strength of our epoxies is greater than the woods surrounding it.
The material to complete this repair was ii quarts of CPES™, two pints of Layup & Laminating Resin, and a one gallon unit of measurement of Fill-It™ Epoxy Filler. The price was $257.68. Compared to the price of replacing the post this is cheap, and the repaired area is stronger than it was originally and complimentary of rot.
Another customer repaired their Porch Pole which was on concrete and sent us the pictures of their work.
Column Rot
Columns can have severe wood deterioration problems because they are usually hollow. The inside wood is untreated and unprotected, and moisture seeping up from the bottom will chop-chop lead to severe wood rot. We accept a picture show hither of a severely damaged cavalcade afterwards the rotten wood has been removed.
Repair is every bit follows: Get-go, care for the columns with the CPES™ (Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer™), including all the exposed faces, the immediately surrounding wood (after the paint is removed), and the base intersection between column and its support. Side by side, using a garden sprayer, the insides of the columns should also be treated with the CPES™. Treating the insides of the columns is extremely important, because the wood inside is very vulnerable and CPES™ will significantly reduce the chance of any future wood deterioration. During use the sprayer can exist cleaned with lacquer thinner, which volition flush the curing epoxy out of the valving.
Later on the CPES™ cures, the hole needs to be filled with Fill-Information technology™ Epoxy Filler. For large open up holes, the easiest way to exercise this is to make a bankroll surface. In that location are two ways that this can be done:
The first is to cut a piece of corrugated cardboard 1″ larger than the size of the pigsty. Bend pieces of wire in half around your finger and push both ends through the cardboard about one ane/2″ from the border of the cardboard in diverse places. Curve the wire ends outward on the inside. Put Fill-Information technology™ around the interior border of the pigsty to secure the cardboard in place. Bend the paper-thin so it tin be inserted into the hole. Using the wires as handles, pull the cardboard outward. Bend the wire effectually the outside of the hole to hold the cardboard in place while the interior edge of Fill up-Information technology™ cures. Afterward the interior edge of Fill-It™ has cured, cutting the wires off flush with the paper-thin and utilize the Fill up-It™ to fill in the missing wood. Afterward curing, sand the filler to shape and pigment.
The second alternative is to fill up the inside of the column with enough expandable foam (the canned version sold at domicile stores will work) to serve as the bankroll. Excess foam tin exist carved away after it cures. This method of bankroll should not be used unless the column is first thoroughly sprayed inside with the CPES™. Foam next to untreated wood traps moisture and promotes wood rot.
Click paradigm to overstate
Here is a picture of a less severely damaged column. This would be repaired by removing paint from all affected surfaces, removing any loose woods, saturating the expanse with CPES™, and and then several days (or longer) later coming dorsum and filling all cracks and vacancies with our Fill-Information technology Epoxy Filler. Ideally, the whole base of this column would be treated with the CPES to prevent recurrence of the deterioration elsewhere.
When it is the particular work that is damaged, that tin exist congenital dorsum with surprising results. First treat the surrounding wood with a penetrating epoxy, and so build back with your choice of the fillers. Forms can be built if you lot have lots of them to do. You can also fill in a close approximation to the desired shape, then sand to finished shape and paint.
A customer sent in their pictures of their Creative Cavalcade Reconstruction, once it was done you would not even know it had been repaired.
Decks and Deck Railings
Decking fails virtually oft because of a central flaw in how they are treated during assembly. Mutual deck construction places the upper surface planks across and perpendicular to 2″ X 12″ joists set on edge. The planks are screwed or nailed to the joists, puncturing both wooden members. Inevitably a sparse air space exists between each deck plank and joist. This very thin gap opens up as the construction moves with changing age and weather conditions. Rain falls and dew condenses at night, allowing water to collect in these narrow dark spaces. Warmed by the sun, the spaces become a convenance ground for natural bacteria and fungi. The woods deteriorates and rots.
Y'all can replace or you lot can repair, if the damage is not likewise great. If the underside of the deck planks evidence deterioration up to a 3rd of the plank thickness or less, and the joist the same degree of deterioration, restoration is possible. Sistering new forest adjacent to the damaged joist is advisable. If you take questions or concerns, we strongly urge yous to consult with a registered architect or professional engineer, and the repairs washed in full conformance with edifice codes and existing regulations.
Restoration begins with the disassembly of the elevation of the deck. Screws are removed, or if nailed the plank can usually exist broken loose from below with a large hammer or maul. Sometimes a few hits from below to loosen and so a sharp strike on meridian will brand the nail stand proud for pulling. Use a pencil to number the planks and then that they tin be replaced in the same order. Place the planks upside downward and using a wire brush lightly scrub the expanse where plank and joist met to remove any loose, deteriorated woods.
Soak the lesser of each plank with Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer™. If it's of import to preserve the weathered appearance of the deck, then plow the plank over inside virtually 1/2 60 minutes and solvent-clean with Lacquer Thinner to remove whatsoever CPES™ that might have soaked through to the top side. If this isn't done earlier the epoxy cures, in that location volition be visible patches of epoxy on top. Allow deck planks to dry at to the lowest degree 48 hours with lesser side up. Now echo this aforementioned process with the joists, assuasive for extensive and prolonged absorption at bad wood areas. If CPES™ impregnation is deep, up to 2 weeks may exist required for solvent evaporation and epoxy cure. Generally, when the location no longer smells strongly the restoration process can keep.
Supervene upon whatever volumes of missing wood with Fill-It™ Epoxy Filler. It can be sanded or shaped with normal woodworking tools.
When the planks are set up for replacement, put into position and drill airplane pilot holes for nails or screws. This is particularly important if y'all are going through the Fill-It™ Epoxy Filler. Sister whatever joists that require information technology. We recommend a clear grain fir with few if any knots. Coat the sisters with the CPES™, especially the stop-grain.
Now, at this point we recommend using a 100% polyurethane sealant between the sister and the joist. Our Dymonic® FC would be a good pick. Apply the material to both surfaces, and spiral or nail the sis to the joist. When the polyurethane has cured, use a pocketknife to carve away any backlog that may have appeared at the top edge of the original joist.
Supplant the planks in sequence using the same method every bit above, including drilling the pilot holes. Apply the two-function polysulfide to the joint and drive the nails or insert screws through the uncured mixture. This is a method used on boats and the life of the repair usually exceeds the life of the deck.
Your deck is repaired! We had a customer who did this on their deck, the project is very well documented and thorough check information technology out… Half-Round Deck.
For new construction, or you're re-edifice a deck the awarding of Articulate Penetrating Epoxy Sealer™ to crucial areas such as plank/joist junctures tin can save y'all a lot of piece of work afterward on. These are the disquisitional areas where nails puncture the wood, gaps be where water seeps in, the sun warms, and eventually the woods is liable to deteriorate. Well-nigh rot starts where water can wick in. CPES™ applied to these areas in advance tin can resist problems. Consult with your architect or construction engineer. But a couple of hundred dollars in extra materials tin can save you much more than downward the road.
Deck railings, more often than not tin exist hands and more cheaply replaced than repaired. As always, if putting in new woods, proceed in mind that sealing the forest from moisture helps it to last much longer and the clear penetrating epoxy sealer goes a long way as a primer/sealer. When the deck railings are decorative or as in our customers One-half-Circular Deck a lot more work went into making the railing and it'south cheaper or less labor intensive than to re-build information technology.
UV Light Damage To Wood
Click on photos to see a larger view.
Wood can be deteriorated by ultraviolet (UV) calorie-free. This problem is most common in the southwestern states where wood beams and siding on buildings are exposed to long periods of intense sunlight.
Wood deterioration acquired past UV lite is different in type and appearance from deterioration caused by rot fungi. Information technology is more diffuse and generalized over the wood surface. The softer summer growth is more susceptible to UV damage, leading to greater erosion in these areas of the wood. Axle ends can be particularly vulnerable.
The pictures we bear witness hither are from a Southern California dwelling. You tin can meet the astringent etching of the wood, and the pitted ends. The dark sealer glaze is breaking down under the UV low-cal and exposing bare wood.
Effective restoration of UV damaged wood requires saturation of the wood surfaces with CPES™ (Articulate Penetrating Epoxy Sealer). The UV damaged wood is much weaker than the undamaged woods, and must be restrengthened if a lasting repair is to exist achieved. The woods should exist allowed to absorb all the CPES™ that it will, and this can be a considerable corporeality on this blazon of deterioration. The CPES™ will serve to fill and bond in the tiny spaces that be between the wood fibers, restoring strength. If protected from additional UV lite, the treatment with CPES™ is permanent. Once in the forest it will not come out.
Protection of the CPES™ treated wood surface requires a coating that is very resistant to UV calorie-free. Epoxies are not made to be UV resistant, they must be coated in guild to protect them.
The only articulate coatings that can supply this high level of protection are marine-course varnishes. It's certainly possible to varnish beams and siding, just at least three coatings will be required and it volition have to be recoated annually. Not much fun!
Opaque coatings, such equally paint and polyurethanes, are more than applied. Adept paint will withstand the UV light for several years, then have to be repainted. An choice to painting is sealing the surface with our Elasta-Tuff™ 6000-AL-HS, a very tough polyurethane coating that is totally UV resistant and will last ten–15 years without recoating or losing color. At least two coats are required. Y'all can get additional details on the Elasta-Tuff™ product data page
Termite and Deadening Insect Damage
While termites are the home owner's main concern, there are a variety of insects that tin and practice penetrate wood. Other insects such every bit a multifariousness of ants, beetles and bees often simply use the wood for home and breeding space. Their damage is not and then extensive, merely does provide an access for water to get into the wood. Information technology's non uncommon to see extensive fungal rot in areas where insects take penetrated.
Termite and tiresome insect tunneling is oft on main frames or sill timbers, and in due grade will cause major structural damage. Nigh often the harm is in inaccessible areas. Replacing the timber is not always an option, and even if it is, replacement tin be expensive. What needs to be washed is to restore structural strength to the timber, and to seal the wood then that bacteria and fungi (and insects) won't accept admission to the interior.
Click on pictures to enlarge.
If the surface is painted, there will be no prove of the repair. Whatsoever testing done by home inspectors will reveal merely an extremely hard surface, much like the good forest surrounding the repair. On unpainted surfaces, finish putty tin can be made by calculation sawdust to a mix of the Fifty&50 Resin until a spreadable consistency is reached. Finish off smoothly. In one case cured this mix is very difficult to sand smoothen. The L& L Resin and sawdust give a toned make full that approximates the color of the original wood. Or the use of an epoxy filler, which is easier to sand, toned with our Epoxy Coloring Agent tin be used to finish off the fill.
Epoxy treatment volition provide an all-around solution. For starters, no insect can survive immersion in epoxy! The most of import betoken to this solution is that epoxies are past far the best fashion to restore force to damaged woods. They are extremely potent, bond easily and strongly with the forest, and have an indefinite life. But you have to use the right epoxies…
The damaged area must first be treated with a penetrating epoxy, to harden the wood and encapsulate any leaner or fungi, and then either a flowable thick epoxy added to penetrate the insect tunnels or, if access is clear, an epoxy filler applied to build dorsum bulk and bond with the CPES™ treated forest. The flow-able epoxy must exist extremely slow-setting to allow fourth dimension for it to migrate to all open areas. Our Layup & Laminating™ Resin is the slowest-setting epoxy we know of.
The photos bear witness a desperately damaged slice of wood (ii pieces, actually, simply both from the same timber and both damaged) that were deteriorated past both termites and fungal rot. Photo A shows the piece after it has been flooded with CPES™ and and then Layup & Laminating™ Resin. When the CPES™ was practical the termites rushed out and were encapsulated.
Photograph B shows a cut department later on it had been treated with CPES™, but before it was flooded with Layup & Laminating™ Resin. Y'all can see that the termite tunnels are darkened by the penetrated CPES™, but that the practiced wood remains unaffected. CPES™ only deeply penetrates deteriorated wood. The nighttime brown material is rotted woods and termite residue that has been penetrated and turned hard by the CPES™.
Photo C shows a cut section after the termite tunnels were flooded with Layup & Laminating™ Resin. They are now solid resin, bonded to the CPES™, which is in turn bonded to the wood. This wood is strong. Yous could drive a fasten with it.
Repairing Insect Damage
The repair process is fairly simple:
ane) Dry the forest if it is damp.
2) Overflowing it with CPES™, through open tunnels, or through drilled access holes, allowing the woods to absorb as much as it volition. If done in an enclosed space, we strongly recommend the use of a cartridge respirator, such as the Moldex unit of measurement nosotros sell. Let the CPES™ to cure.
3) Wrap any open areas with kitchen wrap (Saran Wrap) to keep the L&L Resin from escaping, and then flood the tunnels with the resin. This may take awhile, considering as the resin settles into place you will have to become back and add more than. If the voids are large, you can finish the flow with a pourable slurry of 50&L Resin and sawdust. Remove the kitchen wrap after 24 hours and you are through.
An Epoxy Filler tin can be used to enclose large open areas. It will bond strongly with the penetrating epoxy or epoxy resin treated surface.
The Rot Physician, Inc.
P.O. Box 30612
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